Feature Guide
The red tab is a small red fabric label sewn onto the upper right of the back pocket on Levis jeans and jackets. Introduced in 1936 to protect the brand's trademark, it has since become one of Levis most iconic design elements worldwide. Still used on current production, the tab's letter case, trademark R, orientation, and color are among the most important vintage dating indicators. Despite its small size, one tab can narrow the era by 30 years — it's the single most powerful dating tool. Always check both sides as a fundamental rule.
Even within Big E (both sides uppercase), the presence or absence of the trademark R (®) provides further era precision. No trademark R + both sides uppercase 'LEVIS' = c.1936–1950: early tab introduction, pre-trademark registration. Trademark R + both sides uppercase 'LEVIS' = 1950–1971: trademark registered, ® mark added. This distinction divides Big E into 'early Big E (1936–1950)' and 'late Big E (1950–1971).' Early Big E is rarer than late Big E and typically accompanies leather patches and Conmar/Scovill/TALON zippers.
'Big E' is a collector term for models where the red tab reads 'LEVIS' in uppercase on both sides. The 1971 cost-reduction change to single-lowercase 'Levis' created the 'Small e.' Big E = confirmed pre-1971; Small e = confirmed post-1971. Always check both sides — even if the front appears uppercase, a lowercase back means Small e. Big E existed for only 35 years, making it one of the most important collector market indicators. Two pieces of identical era, model, and condition can differ significantly in price based solely on Big E vs Small e status.
A lesser-known indicator is tab orientation. Vertical orientation (text reads vertically) = pre-1950s. Horizontal orientation (text reads horizontally) = standard from the 1960s onward. While not as definitive as the red tab case or care label, this indicator supplements other dating points. A 'vertical Big E' increases the probability of a pre-1950s piece. When photographing, pull out the tab and shoot from the front so the text orientation is clearly visible.
The orange tab (1969–1999) is an orange-colored tab for budget-line models like the bellbottom 646 — distinct from Big E. Now discontinued with its own collector following. Important note: Big E orange tabs (both sides uppercase) existed briefly from 1969–1971. This means an orange tab with Big E lettering suggests 1969–1971. White tabs appear on specific limited models. Be careful not to confuse orange tab with Small e red tab. Big E era orange tabs are especially rare with high collector value.
Upload photos and AI instantly identifies era, model & factory
Identify for FreeRelated Articles
Feature Guide
Complete Zipper Brand Dating Guide — Scovill, Conmar, TALON, YKK
Feature Guide
Complete Care Label Dating Guide — Narrowing to a Decade
Feature Guide
Complete Selvedge & Outseam Guide — Overlock Color Dating 1981–1993
Feature Guide
Complete Button Back Stamp Guide — 1-Digit, 3-Digit & Factory Numbers